The Sound of Salzburg: Silent Night


2014-07-05 06.17.10

The little city of Salzburg, Austria, could be called the most musical town on earth — the home of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, the von Trapps and the Sound of Music, and the birthplace of Joseph Mohr, the author of the lyrics of the world’s most beloved Christmas carol, Silent Night. For several years I have wanted to visit the Silent Night Chapel, which stands on the site of the aptly-named Church of St. Nicholas in the village of Oberndorf, about a half-hour from Salzburg. This is where the hymn was first sung on Christmas Eve, 1818. The church itself was later destroyed in a flood, but many years ago a small chapel was built to commemorate the carol, and a nearby museum is filled with historical artifacts related to the church, Joseph Mohr, and the composer of the music, Franz Gruber.

Mohr wrote the words of this carol in 1816, but he didn’t give the words to Gruber until shortly before the Christmas Eve service of 1818, two years later. Gruber wrote the music quickly, and it was sung to guitar in the church on December 24, 1818.

Wouldn’t we love to have a recording of that first performance of Silent Night? We had the next best thing. A wedding was taking place in the chapel the day we visited, and two willing wedding musicians sang it for Victoria, Christiana, and me while the wedding party was still outside the chapel taking photographs.

Here are some photographs of my own.

 

Joseph Mohr was born on this narrow street in Salzburg on December 11, 1792.
Joseph Mohr was born on this narrow street in Salzburg on December 11, 1792.
A marker indicates the house where, for years, was assumed to be Mohr's birth house.
A marker indicates the house which, for years, was assumed to be Mohr’s birth house.
New research indicates the numbers on the street changed long ago, and this unmarked house is actually where Mohr was born.
New research indicates the numbers on the street changed long ago, and this unmarked house is actually where Mohr was born.
This is a painting and replica of the original church of St. Nicholas where Silent Night was first sung.
This is a painting and replica of the original church of St. Nicholas where Silent Night was first sung.
What a perfect spot for the birth of the world greatest Christmas carol.
What a perfect spot for the birth of the world greatest Christmas carol.
The river flooded and destroyed the church some years later.
The river flooded and destroyed the church some years later.
This chapel was built after the flood to mark the site where Silent Night was first sung.
This chapel was built after the flood to mark the site where Silent Night was first sung.
Mohr and Gruber
Mohr and Gruber
One of the stained glass windows
One of the stained glass windows
We traveled from Salzburg to Oberndorf by train, then followed the signs to the chapel.
We traveled from Salzburg to Oberndorf by train, then followed the signs to the chapel.
A wedding was taking place there, with horse and carriage for the bride and groom.
A wedding was taking place there, with horse and carriage for the bride and groom.
The wedding musicians sang "Silent Night" for us -- an incredible moment.
The wedding musicians sang “Silent Night” for us — an incredible moment.
The author and composer of the world's greatest Christmas Carol.
The author and composer of the world’s greatest Christmas Carol.